Good to Have You Back
DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT
From the time he was a child, Elie Saab never wanted to do anything but design elegant clothes. After studying design in Paris, he returned to his hometown of Beirut and opened his own atelier. He has never worked for any other label and has never been anyone’s apprentice. After 42 years, Saab still owns his company, not beholden to any corporate overseer, and in all that time, he has had only one mission: to make women feel beautiful in clothes that are unapologetically glamourous.
In an industry currently focusing unnerving attention on logos, branding, sunglasses, and lip gloss, Saab is a unicorn. He is unyielding in his belief that clothing should always be a label’s focus, and trends have no validity if they upstage the woman wearing them. Cynics may call such thinking old-fashioned. However, it’s refreshing. Besides, for justification, all you have to do is watch the body language of Julia Roberts, Jennifer Lopez, Cara Delavigne, Angelina Jolie, Andra Day, Jennifer Hudson, or Jane Fonda on a red carpet wearing one of Saab’s sweepingly romantic gowns, each one gliding along royally, beaming like Cinderella who just found out her curfew doesn’t end at midnight. When Saab sees that, he’s a happy man.
After four decades, what still drives you?
I’m a workaholic. I never get tired of making clients feel special and look wonderful. Though we produce more day wear than we used to, I don’t do basics. I design clothes for occasions when a woman wants to be memorable.
And who is that woman?
She is strong, opinionated, willing to be bold, not running after trends but secure in knowing what flatters her the most. She has a refined sense of femininity, and because she is secure in that, my clothes give her a sense of power.
'I design clothes for occasions when a woman wants to be memorable.'
—Elie Saab
‘he has had only one mission: to make women feel beautiful in clothes & jewelry that are unapologetically glamourous.’
—Hal Rubenstein, Gabriel & Co. Style Director
What gets your imagination fired up besides these women?
The sophistication and magic of Lebanese culture is always a factor. But so are the places I’ve traveled to around the world. This year it was Marrakech and the legendary fashion editor Diana Vreeland, but there is so much inspiration out there. Also, technology has generated so many innovations in fabrication, draping, and embroidery that didn’t exist a decade ago. It increases the fresh possibilities for showing off a woman without compromising her comfort or my imagination, so I don’t have to stay stuck in one direction.
Does that alter the result?
Not for me. I may be old-fashioned, but I still believe that designing dresses that elevate a woman’s presence is paramount. Of course, I want to remain successful, but not by altering my atelier to concentrate more on pushing shoes, handbags, cosmetics and products. I’m selling style and beauty. And I consider that a worthy obligation.
Though you are often well represented, is the red carpet as influential as it was during the fashion frenzy of the ‘90s.
It’s always fun to see actresses you admire looking their best in your gowns, but many people are now aware of the politics surrounding the red carpet these days—the exclusive contracts and incentives that turn some into paid ambassadors for a house. I’m always flattered when someone chooses my clothes, but I’m not selling my label. If you come to me for a look, I’m not going to roll out a rack of dresses and have you pick out a few. I want to work with an actress or any woman who knows she is going to go out and be on display and come up with a look that is specifically right and unique for her. This customization is at the heart of haute couture, and that pursuit shouldn’t be compromised.
But you don’t shy away from accessories?
No, no, no. How do you not want diamonds, more sparkle, and whatever else a woman wants to wear to ensure that she is happy to be noticed and admired? I just don’t want her to wear anything that will take the attention off her. For example, look at your photoshoot, which is beautiful - The women look simply wonderful.
You sound like quite the romantic.
What better trait is there for a designer to possess? How can you get tired of romance? That’s why I’m always excited to do one more collection.
‘She is strong, opinionated, willing to be bold, not running after trends but secure in knowing what flatters her the most. She has a refined sense of femininity, and because she is secure in that, my clothes give her a sense of power.’
